Sunday, November 05, 2006

Roma, Roma, Roma and an Evening to Remember at Osteria Centopoveri...

We had a quick trip here on the train, going through some lovely farm country. The Senato is every bit as wonderful as we remembered. We didn't get the room with the balcony this time, but we still have a lovely view of the piazza and the Pantheon.

We arrived at 2 p.m., so just went for a quick stroll to the Ara Pacis, Altar of Peace. I believe it was Augustus Caesar who built it orignally. Mussolini moved it to its current location near the Tiber. This year, Richard Meier enclosed it in a rather gorgeous modern building. We read a scathing review of it in the Times, but we both liked it and thought it respected both the altar and the surrounding neighborhoods.

Hopefully we'll be able to find dinner tonight, as there isn't much open Sunday night in Roma... much that is good, of course.

Last night's send-off dinner in Firenze was an evening to remember at Osteria Centopoveri. We went out with Don, Alexa, and two friends of theirs, Amanda and Cheryl, who both work for a foundation run by an eccentric Italian count. I don't have his name at the moment, but he sounds really exotic. At first I thought Amanda--in her clipped British accent-- was talking about the "accountant," but then it became clear it was Count.

He's apparently quite rich. They all described the amazing features of his house in Rome. Apparently, when you drive into his driveway, a section of the cobbled drive sinks below ground where the garage is. The pool is covered with a glass grid that you can raise to walk on or lower to make the pool any depth. There were lots of stories, but I have to get out of here.

Let me just say one or two things about the meal. I ordered the deer for my main course and it was the best game I've ever had, rich and succulent. It was the chef's selection and my was it a good one. Unfortunately, the family is moving to Australia, Melbourne I think, so the place is closing in a month or two. If you live in Melbourne, let me know and I'll hook you up with amazing Italian food.

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