Crazy Taxi

It's a travel day today, and even though we're already in Roma, I'm going to just post a quick story and some pictures of Neapolitan grafitti and then we're off to lunch. The story is the most amazing taxi ride we've ever taken. It was Sunday night, and we were going to the other side of town for a semi-fancy meal. (I don't think they have fancy meals in Naples, or at least, not that we could find. Everyone wants to send you to a restaurant "very typical cuisine of the region and not too expensive.") The streets were crowded. It was during the passagatta, and apparently, people like to go out Sunday evening in Naples.

From the start, we could tell that our driver was an expert. He drove with the same speed and controlled aggression as other drivers, but we were jolted less. He seemed to find spaces that only Vespas could find. Each time he was able to surge ahead of other cars. And then we rounded a corner to a complete mess at one of the turnabouts, police lights, packed traffic, no one going anywhere. After a muttered "Madonn'" our cab driver took a quick right turn and then proceeded to take us on a hair-raising, high-speed run through the neighborhood of Santa Lucia. The neighborhood (or borgo or rione) is important because after a particularly nifty move, the driver turned to us and said simply, "this is my neighborhood." His meaning was clear. He knew these streets like a dog knows his own scent. At one point, as he slowed down to round a hairpin turn and shoot down yet another narrow alley, he exchanged a quick insult with another man. "He is my friend. He is taxi driver too. He no work today." Then it was off for the final descent down a twisty street that spat us out on the main boulevard. By this time, we had moved beyond fear into exhilaration. My only regret is that I didn't bring the camera so I could have had some video to post on YouTube. I would have had to put on a disclaimer. "This video is not speeded up in any way." We'll be dining out on this crazy taxi story for years.

While we're lunching in Rome, here are some Neapolitan grafitti pictures for your enjoyment.