May 24 Paris

Don't get me started with this Icelandic volcano bullcrap... we're flying home tomorrow dammit!

OK, last day in Paris, tidying up a few loose ends. We had a leisurely morning, then took the Metro out to the Palais de la Port Doree to see the two offices at either end of the ground floor. One of the offices has amazing furniture by Ruhlmann, and both are marvelous examples of Deco design. The murals on the wall are a bit politically incorrect, dancing naked savages welcoming the civilizing influence of la Belle France... but they are wonderful. Ira even tried to sketch one of the rooms to get the dimensions right in his head. I took lots of photos for him to review later, as well.


The outside of the building is carved with a continuous set of bas-reliefs, completed in less than two years, so they have a wonderful unity about them. They all call attention to France's colonies in Africa, Asia, Oceania, and America. Again, probably not the most PC of schemes, but wonderfully done and managed by Alfred Janniot.

Back onto the Metro and back to Place d'Aligre to pick up some wonderful sugared mint leaves covered in chocolate. You may have had something similar, but you haven't had anything this good! Then off to lunch at Ma Bourgogne. We keep liking this place, then not liking it, then liking it again. This trip was wonderful. I had a poulet roti and the chickens are just darker and more flavorful here. Their frites are out of this world, as well. I started the mean with leeks, delicately cooked and twisted into a coiled rope on my plate. Ira had a starter of cucumbers, tomatoes, and green beans, and then finished up my leeks while I ate my chicken. (He helped with the frites!)

Then Ira went off to sketch Sert's Salle de Bal at the Carnavalet, hands down our favorite room in Paris. I wandered the Left Bank, and tried to get into Notre Dame twice, but was thrown off by the incredible crowds. Maybe next trip!

We're going to Pramil again for another meal. We wanted to go to Breizh Cafe again, but it's closed tonight. Both of these restaurants took the prize for best meals of the trip.

Paris says goodbye!