Friday, May 25, 2012

Florence to Rome

We had no problems on the trip from Firenze to Roma. Don and Alexa live close enough so that we just wheeled our luggage to the stazione. We bought tickets at a machine and 20 minutes later were seated next to Italian businessmen having animated conversations in first class. The countryside is beautiful, flat lands, hills, some kind of tufa-like cliffs. Of course, we recognized Orvieto when we passed. Many great memories of the Signorelli frescoes there. If I have a complaint about this trip, it's missing the Signorelli show in Perugia. Once can't do everything, but he's a painter I admire and adore. Even the cab ride to the Albergo al Senato from the Roma Termine station was shorter than I expected, though the driver talked nonstop into his telephoning. I can't call it a conversation, more of a harangue.

Piazza della Rotunda is generally crowded with tourists, and today was no exception. Once we were rested from our trip, we first went into the building to see a great beam of light flowing from the aperture in the roof. Next, we headed to Piazza Navona for a quick lunch. It's touristy but one of the cafes that lines the piazza, Tucci, is quite good. I had their risotto all creme di scampi, which is perfect. Of course, we finished the meal across the way with tartufi di chocolate from Tr Scalini. Ira sketched a bit, and we watched the piazza performers, paint, draw, pose, busk and sell.

We stopped quickly into the Sant'Andrea della Valle to admire its rich baroque interior. The paintings of the martyrdom of Saint Andrew are powerful, and "read" across the length of the church. There aren't any great paintings per se, but the lush baroque stylings and rich detailing make this a wonderful church to visit.

After a nap, we met Rosaria and Valentina at the hotel's rooftop deck for a drink before dinner. The sun was setting over the rooftops of Rome. We talked politics, both office and national, as bats wheeled around in the suddenly cool air. Sea gulls glowed in the dusk as they landed on a construction crane to the north. The Pantheon's roof was wonderful in that light. Of course, everything looks beautiful in that Mediterranean glow.

We ate dinner at a simple pizzeria around the corner at Valentina's suggestion. Our meal was good and Roman. Ira and I both had the grilled vegetables, fritto misti alla Romana. I started with a cacio and pepe pasta. We finished our evening after midnight at an old gelateria, one of the first big facilities in Rome, which really hit its stride in the '50s. Now, it's off to bed and a busy day tomorrow.

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