Emerald Coast

There's a bakery in town where we tried the couign amman, a Breton specialty that we tried in Paris and that was one of the reasons we came here! Both Ira and I were unimpressed. It seemed a bit tough. Luckily, we went back this morning and had an apple pastry that might have been the best I've ever eaten. We shared one, then immediately went back for another. It was so light and flaky and yet contained so much butter that it must be breaking a law of physics somehow.

We finally had some sustained sunshine, and it was the perfect time for a drive along the Emerald Coast. We started in Dinard, didn't get out of the car but circled the town on the sea side. Just north of town, we pulled over and strolled through a nature area with high growth on either side of the path. From time to time a vista would open up. The lighting was good, so I took a few of Ira.

We continued driving along the sea, occasionally driving through villages and sometimes trending inland through fields of corn, with pastures filled with brindled cows and shaggy sheep with horns that curved back from their heads.

We made for Cap Frehel, a large natural area with wild vistas and acres of dense brush and heather. The sun was shining and the colors of the terrain were brushed with purple, yellow and dull red. The lighthouse at the point was built in 1950 in a stern but still wonderful style. I clambered up the steps for a high view while Ira kept his feet on the ground. 

The cliffs had a red tinge, which contrasted marvelously with the light blue waters. H sky was filled with blue and white clouds massed along the horizon. The wind at the top of the tower was fresh, and I felt a little breathless gazing north, trying to see the islands just out of eyesight.

We continued our drive and ended up on St. Brieuc for lunch. We hit some traffic because of construction, but we found a parking spot in the centre vile and sat down for a lovely meal of galettes at Le Ribeault. Ira had one with chèvre and a side salad tossed in top. I had one with scallops, shrimp and leeks in cream sauce. Luckily, I had a petit pichet of muscadet to cut the richness. We shared a dessert crepes made with the groseilles and it was marvelously tart, with butter and chantilly.

After that, it was just a case of getting out of town while avoiding the jam. We're getting good at traffic circles and routes! Now we're resting until dinner. More to come...