Alle Testiere

We went to this restaurant about five years ago just because it was near our hotel near the campo Santa Maria della Formosa. This is one of those strange spots in Venice where maps don't work. What looks simple on a map turns into sortoportegos and alleys and blind twists and turns. So when we found this little restaurant, went in, and had a tremendous meal, we went a second time. It turns out alle Testiere is one of the choice locations in Venice, serving good, fresh, seafood. The last night Ira and I went there, it was closed due to a death in the family. Ira and I briefly considered crashing the funeral hoping for a cold collation or something, but then we went to a second choice, which was closed as well. By then we were hungry and tired and just stopped at the next place. Ugh. The only bad meal I've ever had in Italy.

But, back to the good meals, and last night was one of them. We had another great wine from the veneto. Ira had the baccala manteca, while I started off with soft shell crabs that were the perfect blend of sweet meat, lightly textured shells, and a strong vinegar sauce. Then we split an order of ricotta ravioli in the best tomato sauce ever. It was sweet and perfect. Ira then had scampi, which was tender and tasty, but difficult to each. I had a John Dory in pistachio sauce. (Yes, I've been having lots of pistachio sauce and since I won't have time to tell you about lunch at Harry's Dolci, let me just interject that Ira and I had the best pistachio gelato there after a gloriously restful lunch.)