A Day of Superlatives...


Best frescoes ever... most charming medieval hill town... we really had such a lovely time today. We took the autostrada to Orvieto first. That's where the incredible Luca Signorelli frescoes are. I've linked to them before, but go back to the last post and go check 'em out. Reportedly, Michelangelo stopped by to see them on his way to paint the Sistine Chapel. They've got the same muscular sensuality, but Signorelli's are over the top. The laser-shooting angels that look like flying robots, the skeleton grinning and having a casual--and apparently amusing--chat with another of the elect, the heavy-faced-but-still-attractive Anti-Christ being told what to do by Satan, and I havenn't even mentioned my favorite panel yet. Ira brought binoculars, and we saw details we'd never noticed before. Check these out online or ask to see the book when you next come over for dinner.

Food, before I get to Pienza, let me discuss last night's meal and today's lunch. Both will tempt you to Umbria and Toscana.

Last night in Arezzo we dined at Logge Vasari in the Piazza Grande. We sat outside of course, listening to the fountain's plashing and watching the moon rise over the crenellated tower across the piazza. Oh, and the food was magnificent. My squid and artichoke salad was excellent, a smart combination of of tart and chewy. Ira's deer carpaccio appetizer was the best, though, more flavorful than beef and the thin slicing really made the venison taste come out. Luckily, he shared. My main dish was black ink ravioli filled with baccala (kind of a cod paste, but heavenly--better to leave it untranslated) smothered with a pecorino sauce and dotted with black truffles. Again, the combination seemed perfect. In fact, we're going back tonight and both having the same dish!

Today at lunch was another winner. We were in Pienza, which is a town redesigned by Pope Pius II, who was born there. He wanted to create an "ideal city" and it really does work. There's a path around the walls for the views of the Tuscan valley and hillsides. The houses and streets all have a calmness to them. It just makes you happy to walk around. The place even looks good with tourists.

Our lunch was at Trattoria da Fiorella, our third choice of restaurants as we walked around town. Even for late in October, there are lots of tourists here, mostly Italian, but with a fair smattering of Germans and Americans. Ira's before was black cabbage on toast, but I should have written down the Italian because it was gorgeous, such rich flavor from the greens and of course the bread was doused in great olive oil. My dish was a precise balance between boar carpaccio, black truffle, and pecorino cheese. Each bite... revelatory. I'm going to be eating a lot more game carpaccio. My spaghetti plate was handmade, thick uneven strands covered in sausage and mushrooms, so chewy and aromatic. I noticed a bit of parsley in the dish, which gave it just the additional flavor the strong meat sauce needed. Ira had the tagliatelli with black truffle. I assume it was great because he didn't offer me any!

I've so much loved our stay in Arezzo: terrific hotel, great art, succulent food, fun road trips. If you're coming to Italy, try Arezzo. Commercial out.

Travel day tomorrow. Hope to post from Firenze.