Hakkasan

Perhaps the most chic Chinese restaurant I've ever been to. Of course it's impossible to get reservations without planning, but Barney knows that you can both eat in the bar space and get a quieter experience. Impossible to find, it's tucked away in the corner just beyond the street where its address is advertised. You walk down a staircase covered in rough green slate and into a dimly lit, beautifully decorated space. Lots of watery light effects. The whole ambiance is one of luxury, with a predomination of glass glowing with blue light set out with brilliant flashes of red.

But it's the food we came for... right? Our first course was a lobster and spinach soup. The lobster was perfectly cooked, still tender with not a trace of rubbery texture. The spinach was pureed and suspended in a thick broth.

Then we moved on to some dim sum selections. Barney speaks Chinese so was able to get us some that weren't on the dinner menu. I think we had scallop shu mai, chinese chive dumplings, the shi meji dumplings, and something with shrimp in it. Perfect.

We had three main dishes. The cod might be the best fish that I've ever tasted, cooked to that precise point where it stops being translucent and yet still retains every bit of tenderness available. The morning-glory stir fry was spicy, in chili and a ginger sauce. Who thought morning glory could taste so exquisite?

Dessert was extra special. I had a chocolate cake with passion fruit sorbet. I wanted it again right away. The chocolate was dense and rich without being too sweet. I've never heard of a Chinese restaurant with such elegant chocolate desserts. Even Ira liked his Ciollo chocolate lemon mousse.

One of the finer restaurants I've ever eaten in. Perhaps we'll go back for lunch!

8 Hanway Place, but come prepared to hunt for it.