Along the Cote

Mostly a driving day today, headed for Juan les Pins. Headed out of town along our favorite route, the one with the kilometer upon kilometer of sycamore trees lining the roads.

It didn't take long for us to get into a new terrain, more rock pines and of course the occasional glimpse of the Mediterranean as we drove near to the coast. We were headed for Hyeres and the modernist Villa Nouailles by Mallet-Stephens. We were early, so we headed out to the beach to have lunch since the downtown area seemed pretty dead. Plus, we wanted to park the car nearby since it's got all of our luggage in it. We stopped at your basic funky beach eat place, the Acapulco, and had surprisingly good food. I had the shrimp over pasta, but these were fresh prawns, tender and perfectly cooked. Ira had a mussels gratinee and a bowl of frites. We chatted with the woman who owns the place and she asked why we were there. I don't think they get many American tourists.  It was more of a local tourist spot. She liked the villa as well when we told her the reason for our visit.

The drive up to the house was torturous, with many a winding lane masquerading as two-way. Parking was even more of a nightmare, as too many cars jockeyed for too many precarious spots. I counted myself lucky to have a spot with a sheer drop behind of twenty feet. The villa was gorgeous to look at, with marvelous framed views. Inside, however, it was kind of undistinguished. They had an art show there, and had subsequently covered the windows. Without the views, the rooms seemed kind of small. Still, it's a triumph of modernist architecture and it was great to see it in person.

The road from Hyeres to St. Tropez was wonderful. It cut through a large wooded area with cork oaks stripped of their bark up to about six feet, you could see the freshly cut ones and then those that had a few years to recover. I'd never thought this an area for cork, but I guess Spain isn't the only producer

We hit terrible traffic along the coast, inching along with the people leaving their Sunday day of fun. So, when we had the chance, we turned inland and got to our hotel much more quickly. Now, once in Juan Les Pins we did have trouble finding the damn place. We tried the Michelin, the Mao, then GPS, but we just couldn't get there. We were close, just not there. So, finally, I called and they were able to get us to the gate.

Out hotel is lavish and linked with the fancier Belle Rives across the street with the sea views. Because of hath at relationship, we could get a reservation at the fancy hotel for dinner. The night was warm, about 75 degrees, we were dining in the terrace, and the view in front of our eyes was the sea and the lights of the piers and St. Tropez across the bay.

The service was relaxed and fun, not something I expected. One waiter took our drink order, then another came along to take it. Another stepped up and apologized and said he was in training. They joked with him a bit about it.

The dinner was long and many coursed. There are amuses and pre-amuses and pre-desserts. Come hungry to a fancy French meal. First came a dish with three small bites each, a delicate ham and cereal cheese flute, a large French fry seasoned with rosemary and a small shrimp en gelee. Next up was a mushroom and mussels soup. 

Finally, we were ready for what we ordered! I started with a tortellini dish filled with mozzarella di buffalo. It was good, but some if the other flavors overwhelmed the cheese. Ira started with the foie gras, sublime as usual.

My main course was the Rouget. It came in two large slices, perfectly cooked with delicate flesh and crispy skin. I thought the portion too large, but I ate every bit of it. Ira wanted to keep it light, so he only had the cheese course for his main. I got to share some if it, and i I agreed it was perfectly chosen.

One note about the breads. I sampled a few varieties, but the fennel epi was some if the best bread I've ever tasted!

Dessert was a fancy mousse with mango for Ira. H enjoyed it, but I think he preferred the simpler classic mousse he had 36 years ago. My dessert was a cherry cake with pistachio ice cream and covered with sour cherries. I was complicated and divine.

We enjoyed the view over coffee and rolled out of there completely satisfied.