We got in the car first thing and drove up the coast to Antibes where we had found a modern parking garage for our Picasso adventure. I hate to rave about parking, but this was a high-tech looking garage with blue runway lights and enough room to maneuver!
It was market day so Ira had to stop. He bought some groseilles for our lunch host, then some saffron and figs. Oh, and some spice for making paella. I have a feeling we're going to be having a lot if it in the future. Our friends our opening up a paella place in SF soon, but I'm getting ahead if myself.
Our next stop was the Picasso Museum newly--and to some, tragically--redone with clean stone walls and an open look. I hadn't seen it in its previous incarnation, so can't judge. The siting, right off the sea, is magnificent. As you wander around, your eyes is drawn to the blue of the Mediterranean. Looking out, windows frame a perfect view.
The art was equally incredible. I'm not sure if the pictures changes a lot, but these were works that Picasso did in 1946 when he was resident in the building. He was experimenting with using industrial paints, and the works had a muted tone as a result, and strong graphic lines etched into thick paint. I was unfamiliar with most of the specific works, but they all resonated with me. There was a carelessly sketched goat that fantastically bridged realism and abstraction. An abstraction that was colored like ripe olives. A painting entitled Joie de Vivre, which is perhaps the silliest thing he ever painted. Great time, though the museum was a bit too crowded. Occasionally, we had to wait for a tour group to make its way through one of the smaller rooms.
The terrace outside was simply magnificent, with sculpture, sun, stone and sea all contributing to tae your breath away.
It was now time for lunch, and boy, was it an event! Friends invited us to their cabana at the Hotel du Cap. I turns out paradise has it own version if he the luxury box, and we were in it. Before lunch, some if us went for a swim in the sea. It was about 75 or 80 degrees, relatively mild. I swam out to a sunning platform about 100 yards away and perched there for a bit, watching passing fishing boats and yachts.
Lunch was served at the cabana. I had the octopus salad, and it was tender and wonderful. We all had melon for our second and it was tender and ripe. A good rose helped the conversation and there were lot of little delicacies... a perfect tranche of cheese, some divine mashed potatoes, a salads nicoise that as too big for one person and had to be shared.
After lunch, we all retreated to our lounges and napped or read. I slept a bit and tanned and watched people in the yacht moored in the bay below. Next up, it was time for the pool, with an infinity ledge that overlooked the sea. By now, the sea had darkened in the afternoon, and the contrast between the light blue pool water was striking.
All in all, one of those perfect ways to spend a lazy afternoon. Thanks much to generous friends!
Back to Juan Les Pins to regroup, then out for dinner at Le Vesuvio, which a friend had recommended as fun. It was! We sat and ate delicious Italian food while watching people walk by, ranging from elderly French ladies still trying to be chic to slobs in baggy shorts and t-shirts. Every kind of car drove by as well, convertible Bentleys and VW buses. Even an RV navigated through the narrow street.
Ira ordered off menu just to get a plate of tomatoes. I started with warm goat's cheese salad. Mine was wonderful, with a strong vinaigrette and creamy cheese. Next up, Ira tried his best with a truly enormous fritto misto, while I ate up every bit of my grilled prawns. They really are delicious here!
We both finished the meal with ice cream and staggered home well content. There were a lot of oeooke playing boules, at least six different groups, including some older women. I noticed that here was was a club house set back in the park. It is incredible to see skilled players at it, sometimes trying for the mark and other times trying to knock someone else's boule from its near position. Lots of fun on a warm night!
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