Marseille, the big city

We've avoided big burgs on this trip, but yesterday we dipped our toes into Marseille. I'd been once before, but only to meet friends at the train station. It's wonderfully placed, of course, with its big bay. It's kind of a sprawling mess, but the surrounding rocky cliffs and sea edging give the high rises a sense of order.

Ira wanted to see this 19th century fountain at the Palais Longchamps, which is the municipal beaux-arts museum. We got there, but it it took some effort. We had to drive through the heart of he the city, with all of the traffic confusion that entailed. Ira would read the map, I would translate that into the reality hath at was happening in front of my fender and we made it!

The fountain is really splendid, one of those overdone Victorian-era gestures. A small child was walking in front of us and when he saw the sculptures and fountains his face lit up into a big grin. I guess mine did as well. I took pictures, we soaked up the sun, and then we went into the museum. It was small and there was nothing of real importance, but we liked many if there pictures in display. There were several fine Courbets and Corots, two of my favorite artists. Probably the best picture there was a Rubens of a boar hunt. The pig was in the center, saliva dripping from tusks as terrified men kept it at bay while the main hunter plunged his spear in.

Next, Ira wanted to see Le Corbusier's Cite Radieuse. He found the perfect route for us that was mostly boulevards, so we sailed there grandly, found a convenient parking spot and then enjoyed its modern marvels. We took the elevator to the third floor and had lunch at the Architect's Stomach. There wasn't much choice, but the food was wonderful. We both started with the stuffed squash blossoms, one filled with gelee, the other with orzo... Both tasty. Ira had a superb quail in mustard sauce on polenta that was absolutely perfect. I had fish over rice that was quite tasty.

After so much traffic, we headed home for a relaxing late afternoon. We lazed a bit, then went out for a late dinner at a nearby brasserie. I again had fish over rice, though the rice was a red variety that was just perfect. Ira had a risotto with girolles mushrooms that was good. Ira found the risotto a bit too creamy, though the trumpets were perfection. For once. I forwent the dessert.